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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.